Nashville: Country Music Capital

	Nashville

When the state of Tennessee was settled, no one could guess the important role its capital city would play in the world around them. Modern day Nashville, sometimes referred to as "Nash-Vegas", is known as the country-music capital of the world, Music City, USA, and the Athens of the South. Its lesser known strengths include being a leader in higher learning, an epicenter for elite sport, supporting both an NFL and an NHL team, insurance, banking, printing, tourism and manufacturing. One of Nashville's proudest moments occurred when Neil Armstrong wore socks made in the Volunteer State's capital city during man's first walk on the moon.

HISTORY

French fur traders, most notably Charles Charleville, were the first to establish trading in the area. In 1710 the first trading post was established, and by 1779 a permanent site that would eventually grow into the capital was founded. By the late 1700s, so many settlers had moved in that tension began building between the new residents and the Cherokee Indians living there. The Battle of the Bluffs, fought in 1781 against the First Nations hero Dragging Canoe, nearly brought an early end to the settlement, then known as Nashborough. The tragedies of that war, along with the threat posed by the American Revolution, led the Cherokee to move to Chikamauga Creek, near present day Chattanooga. Peace came to the territory soon after.

The settlement of Nashborough changed its name to Nashville in 1784. One year later the future capital built the Davidson Academy, the first public institution of higher learning in Nashville.

Nashville took a giant step toward the future in 1794, when Robert Renfro was granted a license to operate the first African-American owned hotel in the state. It took another major leap a few years later when, in 1802, George Poyzer began producing and selling equipment used in the spinning cotton.

The capitol of Tennessee moved many times before finding a permanent home in Nashville in 1843.

Old Glory

One of the most enduring and beloved symbols of Americana, the national flag, has a special relationship with Nashville. Naval Capt. William Driver, who is now buried in Nashville's Old City Cemetery, is credited with naming the American Flag. Prior to departing on one of his many military expeditions, the Captain unfurled a national flag presented to him before the voyage began. As his gaze fell upon the symbol of the nation, he is said to have exclaimed "Old Glory", and fixed the flag to his ship. The flag circled the globe twice before ending active duty flying over the capital, where Captain Driver retired in 1837. Old Glory and its story have been safeguarded in the Smithsonian Institute since 1922. The flag is now so brittle that it can never be unfolded, and must be protected even from sunlight. Sadly, no photographs have, or ever will be taken of this precious American treasure.

The city took another leap into the future when the Nashville Gas Light Company opened its doors in March of 1850. The first gas works operation in the state produced gas to light and heat Nashville from coal mined in the area. Today the Nashville Gas Company is the oldest operating corporation in in the capital.

Nashvillians also found fortune abroad, when William Walker became president of the Central American country of Nicaragua in 1856.

Nashville Plow Works at 8th Ave. and Palmer Place turned plowshares into swords for the Confederacy before Nashville fell to the Union. So rare are these swords today, you can easily turn one into cash to the tune of $15,000.

When the American Civil War came knocking, the city was ready. The location was an important one, having joined the growing railroad and established riverboat connections with the heavily traveled Mississippi River. Confederate General John Bell Hood led the Army of Tennessee toward the fast approaching Union Army, hoping to crush their hopes before they reached the capital. On November 30, 1864, the two armies met at Carter Farm in Franklin, now a suburb of Nashville. The battle grew worse throughout the day, becoming the bloodiest battle of the American Civil War, "the bloodiest battle of modern times in any war", according to Sam Watkins of the Tennessee Infantry. Men bayoneted and clubbed to death, and many lost their lives in viscious hand to hand combat. Throughout the battle, the Carter family hid in the basement, listening to the sounds of war. One of the Carter sons was enlisted with the Confederacy, and had not set foot on his family's land for three years. Theodrick Carter literally gave his life defending his home.

As the battle raged on, the Confederate Army began caring for its wounded out of the Carnton Plantation. As space in the home diminished, the wounded began the long wait in the surrounding fields. Blood stains can still be seen on the floors. The Carnton family, avid supporters of the Confederacy, donated two acres of land to be used as a Confederate cemetery, now known as McGavock Confederate Cemetery, which is said to be haunted. The most common sighting is of a confederate soldier roaming the halls and porch of Carnton Masnion.

After soundly thrashing the southern army, federal troops made their way north toward the capital. Making weapons from various farm tools, Nashville took a strong stand on Confederate lines until finally succumbing to Union forces during the Battle of Nashville. The city would struggle with rebuilding and fighting an outbreak of cholera until the Tennessee Centennial Exposition shortly before the turn of the century.

After the war, Nashville looked once more to building a bright future when Fisk University, one of the first African American schools, was founded in 1866. So popular and successful was Fisk University that one year later the school was officially recognized as a University. The university campus also houses the Van Vechten Gallery.

Nashville has always beef a leader in modern technology. Among the many accomplishments include being the first southern state to employ telephone service, in 1877, and electric streetcars in 1890.

The Parthenon of the Centennial Expo

In 1896, Tennessee celebrated its 100th birthday with the Centennial Exposition, held in the state capital. To mark the occasion, a full size model of the legendary Greek masterpiece, The Parthenon in Athens, was developed. The celebration was promoted with the specific intention of generating interest in the city, hoping to increase the quality of life in post Civil War America. The Expo was such a success that the Tennessee version of the Parthenon was modified for permanent use.

Life in the Nashville area was relatively undisturbed during the early years of the 20th century, but disaster struck in the spring of 1916. A mill in the city's east end caught fire, and spread rapidly. Before firefighters could contain the blaze almost 650 homes and businesses had burned to the ground. Fortunately, the addition of a motorized fire truck helped the fire department respond quickly. Remarkably, of the more than 3,000 residents left homeless only one life was lost.

The capital was still rebuilding when two trains collided in Davidson County in 1918. The trains, full of travelers and military personnel hoping to play a part in World War I, met at full speed at Dutchman's Bend. The crash was heard 2 miles (3 kilometers) into the distance, and thousands rushed to the site to help survivors and care for the wounded. In all, 101 travelers lost their lives that day .

In the long, hot summer of 1920, Nashville took part in one of the more important moments in the development of the United States. One year earlier, Congress began a process of amending the constitution to give women the right to vote. According to the rule of the day, the 19th Amendment needed the support of 36 states, and by the time the issue reached Tennessee 35 had signed their agreement. The Nashville vote became critical to Suffragists; if Tennessee passed on the amendment it seemed unlikely that one of the states that voted against the 19th Amendment would change their minds. Reporters from across the nation flooded the Nashville streets, as the amendment was passed by one vote.

In 1922, a group Southern writers who called themselves The Fugitives, began rekindling the interest in contemporary literature with The Fugitive magazine. Published through Vanderbilt University, the magazine produced award winning authors and Nobel Laureates, and depicted life in the southern states. The works are celebrated to this day.

	The Grand Ole Opry

Nashville would inspire the nation three years later when the Grand Old Opry radio program went to air. The show was first billed as the WSM Barn Dance, a direct response to the popular WLS Barn Dance program aired out of Chicago, IL. The Nashville show began showcasing country music, then gaining popularity around the country. The show was renamed in 1927 and quickly overshadowed its Illinois counterpart.

The recording industry came to town in 1944 when WSM-AM radio opened Nashville's first recording studio. The success of the studio, and the growing popularity of the Nashville sound, drew the attention of the recording industry elite and by the 1950s record companies from all parts of the United States operated offices and studios out of Nashville.

Nashville placed another stamp on global culture when Jack DeWitt bounced the first radar signals off the moon. DeWitt, chief engineer for the WSM radio station, used a system he designed during World War II for the purpose of detecting enemy mortars. After saving thousands of lives with his many inventions, DeWitt turned his attention back to design. His goal was to perfect a project begun during the war, involving the sending and receiving of radio waves. His efforts prevailed and, and has influenced many aspects of modern life, from entertainment and communication to aerospace technology.

Mother Nature showed her less pleasant side in January, 1951 when the "Great Blizzard" dropped a record snowfall on the unprepared city. To make matters worse, Nashville experienced record rainfalls only the day before. By morning, everything was frozen and buried in snow. The damage was enormous, estimated in the millions, and 16,000 homes went without power. The snow lasted though the first week of February.

The civil rights struggle made Nashville headlines when a non-segregated school was bombed in September of 1957. Soon, sit-ins were held throughout the city, prompting city authorities to question segregation practices. After thoushands of citizens march on City Hall in April of 1960, the mayor's office began working towards integration. The efforts paid off on May 10 of that year when Nashville became the first major US city to desegregate stores and restaurants.

The late 20th century was not so kind to Music City. Its reputation for big business was fading, and much of downtown Nashville fell into disrepair. In 1974 the Ryman Auditorium closed its doors, and interest in downtown Nashville declined significantly. The majority of tourism revolved around the music industry, and when The Grand Old Opry was forced to find a new stage, the tourists followed. Music would not let its city fade, however, and through the 1980s and 1990s the capital saw a resurgence in the club scene. The revival led to renovations on the historic Ryman Auditorium. The 8 million dollar restoration project took only one year to complete, and in the summer of 1994 the Ryman reopened to warm reviews. The modern day Ryman Auditorium plays host to top acts from all genres, from Kenny Rogers and Chet Atkins to Chris Isaak and Cheryl Crow. The Ryman is also host for non-music related events. In 2001, the auditorium was chosen for the funeral of guitar legend Chet Atkins.

	Nature Unleashed

CLIMATE

Summer in Nashville tends to be fairly warm, with averages settling around 90º Fahrenheit (30º Celsius). The city does experience moderate to heavy humidity, which only adds to the heat, especially during July and August. Fall is generally easy going, as the rains have slowed and the humidity lessens considerably. This is a fantastic time to see the city, as the summer climate lends mother nature a hand in creating some of the most spectacular and vibrant natural surroundings in the state.

Winters don't get very cold, but they can be wet. Frequent rains make the average 40º Fahrenheit (10º Celsius) temperatures seem much colder. There isn't much snow seen during these months, but the few days that do fall below the freezing point make it well worth carrying a few warmer clothes, just in case. Temperatures rise 10 or 10 degrees through the spring, but storms are not uncommon. Rain falls fairly frequently, so good waterproof or repellent clothing is an asset.

It is important for travellers to Nashville to be aware of dramatic changes in weather activity, as Tennessee is frequently ravaged by tornados. firstly, when monitoring weather reports keep in mind that a Tornado Watch means weather is turning and a tornado may appear. A Tornado Warning means a twister has been spotted in the area. In the event of a tornado, the safest place to be is in a storm shelter, often found in the basement or yard. These shelters are specifically designed to protect against natural disasters.

If there is no shelter available, moving to the basement is the best option. Twisters typicaly move from Southwest to Northeast, so staying away from the south and west walls is best. If there is no basement available, a small room on the ground level, such as a bathroom, will do. Bathrooms require more framing to support the plumbing, which acts as reinforcement for the walls. Also, it is common for the bathtub to be the only thing left in place after the tornado passes, due to the anchoring they require. Crouching in a tub, with a cushion over top, provides protection on all sides from crumbling walls and breaking glass.

Flying to Nashville

The Nashville International Airport operates multiple daily flights throughout North America. The airport has many car rental agencies to choose from, as well as taxis, but the most convenient and affordable method of getting to and from Nashville International is by bus or shuttle. The Metropolitan Transit Authority runs buses pass through the airport grounds nine times a day between Monday and Friday, with half that number of trips on weekend days. Schedules can be found at the Welcome Center near baggage claims.

Greyhound Lines operates daily trips to and from Nashville, using the airport as a departure point. Departures to Knoxville, Clarksville and Fort Campbell, are the most common.

There is also an express shuttle that travels between Nashville and Chattanooga several times each day. The shuttle also uses Nashville International Airport as a base for operations. There is a similar shuttle that runs to Knoxville as well.

Interstate travel is common, as the I-265, I-440 meet in downtown Nashville. The main highways are the I-65 running north to Louisville, KY and south to Birmingham, AL, and the I-40 running east to Knoxville and west to Memphis.

Once in the city, things can get confusing. The trick is to remember that on west of the Cumberland River, avenues run north and south, where as on the east side, streets run north and south. This can frustrate first time visitors. Also, the majority of public transit runs only through the downtown. Most major attractions are in this area, but venturing beyond the boundaries of the city center can be a challenge for visitors without a car. That said, getting around the in the city is fairly easy.

A fun option can be found in the Opryland River Taxi. The Cumberland River, running through the center of Nashville, offers the most scenic route through the capital, while keeping visitors close to such attractions as the Grand Ole Opry, General Jackson's showboat, Country Music Television, and the luxurious Opryland Hotel, one of the finest establishments in the city. The River taxi operates round-trip journeys between Riverfront Park and Opryland, and carries tourists between Opryland USA and the downtown core. Opryland River Taxis operate in conjunction with Grand Ole Opry Tours.

Another fun means of sightseeing can be found on land, with the Nashville Trolley. Replicas of the original tram cars run through the downtown, and pass various attractions including Music Row and the Ryman Auditorium, Gaylord Entertainment Center, historic architecture, shopping districts and many restaurants, including the former Planet Hollywood.

For visitors who plan to drive themselves, the east/ west bound I-40 runs through Nashville, making a loop around downtown. The main routes through the city center are Jefferson Street, which connects highway 40 on the west side with Spring Street on the east side via Jefferson Bridge, and Charlotte Ave, which becomes Main Street on the east side of the river via Victory Memorial Bridge.

SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS

Many industries find Nashville to be a prosperous home, but most of the world associates Nashville with music. This popular form of music was perfected here, and takes root in the cultural melting-pot of the early 1920s, mixing the folk histories of European settlers with the spiritual essence of African Americans. The recording industry began to take shape with the progress of technology, and the interest spawned by the popular Grand Old Opry radio show, the country's longest running radio program.

	Music City USA

In 1943 the show moved to the Ryman Auditorium, where its popularity steadily increased. Entertainers of the day considered The Opry the defining moment in their make-or-break industry. In one of their more regretful moments, the Opry officials denied Elvis Presley an opportunity to perform in 1954, advising him to stick to his day job. In 1974, the show moved to the Opryland theme park, the country music version of Disneyland, complete with hotels and its own record label. The success of the country music scene led to the development of The Nashville Network (TNN) and Music Row, the hub of Nashville's recording industry.

Nashville is a city of celebration. One of the most popular events here is the Fan Fair Country Music Festival. Every summer more than 20,000 visitors and offers live performances of country music, by such artists as Garth Brooks and Alan Jackson.

Not to be missed by any fan of country music, nostalgia or Americana is the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Costumes, instruments and paraphernalia from Boxcar Willie's hat to Elvis' Cadillac are still on display.

Nashville also has many attractions not music related. There is unique architecture, none of which is more impressive than the lavish Belmont Mansion, the most extravagant private residence in the city. The Italian style home was the vision of Adelicia Acklen, one of the wealthiest women, and shrewdest business minds, of her day. During the Civil War, the home served as Union headquarters for Generals David Stanley and Thomas Wood. The grounds include its own gardens, a zoo, one of the finest art museums around and a lake (which was occasionally stocked with live alligators).

The Tennessee State Capitol, modeled after an early Greek temple, is another historic edifice worth visiting. Ionic design has long interested Nashvillians, so much so that it gave the city one of its nicknames, The Athens of the South. The name actually came from an exhibit during the 1897 Centennial Expo. This celebration also gave the city one of its more loved art venues, the Parthenon, found in Centennial Park. The building itself was reconstructed in 1931.

Union Station, Nashville's former railway station, was built for the turn of the century. The station opened its doors in the fall of 1900 to serve Nashville, Chattanooga, Louisville, KY and St. Louis, MO. The resplendent station had two alligator ponds and a statue of Mercury on the 222 foot (68 meter) tower. The station has since been restored and is converted to a hotel, one of Nashville's few historic landmarks visitors can stay in. Arthur's Restaurant, in the main lobby, offers fine dining with an historic elegance.

An interesting opportunity to view the history of Nashville architecture can be experienced while wandering through the Vanderbilt University campus grounds. Founded in 1873, the campus sports modern buildings intermixed with older Gothic structures. Vanderbilt U was the scene of student demonstrations during the Viet Nam War protests common throughout the country.

Art at the Parthenon Museum

Riverfront Park may not be sprawling with green fields, but the rebuilt Fort Nashborough is like a snapshot into the past. Not too far from the Fort, another snapshot of the Nashville role in American life has been taken. The Tennessee State Museum is dedicated to preserving the history and development of one of the country's more unique states. The Civil War era is the most prominent theme here. Davy Crockett, often seen as the poster boy for early America, played an important role in securing the frontier life of early settlers. His battles for independence, as well as his death while defending The Alamo in Texas, are legendary. One of the rifles Davy used during his military career can be seen in the museum. Also chronicled are post war reconstruction and the civil rights movement.

Nightlife in the state capital is not all politics and aging country nostalgia. The city supports a growing club scene, from honky tonk to dinner and dance, bluegrass to funk (and even punk music) spots. There are also summer festivals, showcasing music from all genres. The Tennessee Performing Arts Center is home to the local symphony orchestra, which also organizes summer concerts in parks around the city.